Some things I learned this week that I somehow missed in the last decade. Please comment to correct me if I'm wrong but this is what I've heard. (Eh, sonny!? Retrogrouch needs you to speak louder!)1) if you try to use a new the new external-bearing-bottom bracket/crankset (what is that called anyways?) on an old cross bike (Y2K), it don't work (see picture). It'll work if you run a 1x1 or 1x9 and mount the inner chainring on the outside, but then it's an issue to have an outer chainguide (unless possibly you use Paul's awesome new chain guide). What is up with that?! Seriously, did they make everyone change their frame specifications to shift the BB to the driveside or something when I wasn't looking? I tried spacers but over 5mm of spacers on the driveside is needed and then the cranks press so hard on the bearings they don't turn round and round. Go figure. So either back to the 10yr old Ultegra octalink cranks or jerryrig this crankset with a new chainguide spacing kit. The Cyclesport boys have it in their control now - I've given up (that is a first, i NEVER give my bikes for someone else to work on but I'm done...too much time and money spent already!).
2) New cross bikes have 1 1/8" steerer tubes, and even newer ones have a split-flaring diameter somehow going from 1 1/8" to 1 1/4". Stiffness with those carbon forks is paramount I guess as they shutter and occasionally break. (However, a good 1" steel fork is hard to beat. Isn't disposable after a crash and bends back into place! Yeah yeah, they're much heavier, but train a little harder or lift some weights.)
3) New cross bike rear hub spacing is 135mm like mountain bikes instead of 130mm road spacing. This is cool actually (if it weren't for my old wheels being 130mm) because you can use nice a lightweight mountain wheelset - like tubeless Stans (even with discs!?) - and trade out with your cross specific race wheelset. I like when they use the same specs between bike types as you don't have to have multiple of the same things for all your bikes. Interchangeability = cool.
Ok, all for now. Anything else you can think of?
2 comments:
it's sustainablity of the industry. nothing was broken, but they insisted on fixing it, anyway.
i, for one, am happy about 1 1/8 steerer tube. makes attaching a stem to make up for my fading flexibility without having to buy a new bike. the external BB thing. wait until you try to cross 9 speed with 10 speed stuff and your chain is rubbing on the innner ring of your 10 speed compact crank. it's all gone to hell in a hand basket. it's why grant peterson does 1 million plus a year on lugged bikes with flat pedals and enormous quill stems.
he is making a point about consumerisms....
steel is real. always will be. tapered head tubes. i assemble them, distribute them. service them. sure. cash for the cow, but are they better? improved handing, stability, performace? nay. lighter? sure. nothing like vibrating your way through a 90 degree off camber turn on your cross bike right into your fan base just for the sake of 3 pounds of weight savings. i'm taking 15 instead of 18. 18 for steel is screaming light.
i digress. i've ranted on meriwethers rants. apologies.
by the way, you realize that external is out and BB30 is in...ask dubba about that. it'll make your head spin. just keep riding the fab, the hunter and commuting and tank. it'll all make sense in the end because you'll be riding your bike instead of waiting for the local shop to fix it...
aaaand. i'm done.
That was awesome! Brother Wolfe, you can rant anytime you want here.
I agree on the 1 1/8 steerer, now road/mtn stems are united!
I'm not even going to talk about 10speed. I'm still running 8 on Tank and 9 on the IndyFab and the Hunter when he's geared. This uncontrolled growth is so absurd to me. I took the front derailleur off Tank and went 1x8 since finding an 8 or even 9spd bottom pull road front der is not easy anymore. WTF?! Oh well, 8 speeds is plenty.
What the hell is a BB30? Are you serious? I can't keep up, not am I sure I want to anymore.
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